On a Citroën Méhari, rust concentrates on 6 precise zones of the steel platform chassis, while the ABS plastic body itself never corrodes at all. Repair costs range from 150 EUR for a simple preventive treatment to more than 8,000 EUR for a full floor and side member rebuild at a specialist bodyshop. The good news: the Méhari is a mechanically simple car, and most of what looks alarming on the plastic bodywork is only cosmetic. The real question is always what is happening underneath, on the steel chassis the plastic panels are bolted to. Here is how to inspect every zone, tool in hand.
Understanding the Méhari's structure before you inspect
The Citroën Méhari (1968 to 1987) sits on a platform chassis derived from the 2CV, topped with a thermoformed ABS plastic body. This clever design choice means the body itself cannot rust, but it can mask the real problem underneath: the chassis is made of thin steel, often poorly protected, and permanently exposed to road spray and damp ground. The Méhari was sold as a beach or countryside runabout, and many examples spent decades shuttling between sea salt, mud and wet winters without ever receiving an anti-corrosion treatment.
To inspect one properly, get a sturdy flat blade screwdriver for probing soft areas, a strong magnet (useless on the ABS panels, essential underneath the car), a torch and ideally a round-head trim hammer. Put the car on a ramp or on solid axle stands rather than relying on a jack alone.
For a full overview of the model's history, versions and technical specifics, see our complete Citroën Méhari restoration guide.
Zone 1: The floor and side members, the structural heart of the car
How to inspect them
This is where everything is decided. The Méhari's floor is made of pressed steel panels between 0.8 mm and 1 mm thick, especially vulnerable to rust that develops from the inside out: moisture builds up under the carpets and under the seat mounting points, and corrosion eats away silently. Get underneath the car and tap the panel regularly with the handle of your screwdriver. A dull, hollow sound signals delamination, and if the tip of the screwdriver pierces the steel without resistance, the part is gone. Run the magnet over it too: on a sound or properly restored floor it grips firmly, if it slides on suspicious areas, filler or resin may have been used to hide the problem.
The two main side members run the full length of the car. Inspect their inner faces, the most exposed to moisture, and their front and rear ends, where they connect to the suspension. Advanced rust on the side members is a deal breaker if it compromises the welds that hold the suspension mounts.
Estimated cost
- Preventive treatment on a sound floor: 150 to 300 EUR
- Replacing sections of the floor (parts and labour): 800 to 2,500 EUR
- Replacing one complete side member: 1,500 to 3,500 EUR per side
- Full floor and side member rebuild: 5,000 to 8,000 EUR
Zone 2: The front platform and front suspension mounts
At the front, the pressed steel platform inherited from the 2CV carries the suspension arms, the dampers and the steering column. This zone is under constant mechanical stress and takes a steady beating from water and grease thrown up by the wheels, so rust here is often less visible but more dangerous.
Focus on the suspension arm mounting plates, any deformation or perforation is a safety deal breaker, and on the closed box sections of the front side members, where you can slide the handle of a screwdriver through accessible openings and scrape, a reddish brown powder falling out means advanced internal rust. Weld points deserve particular attention, since corrosion almost always starts where the two pieces of metal meet and trap water.
Surface rust without material loss is treatable with sandblasting, epoxy primer and paint. Rust that has reduced tube wall thickness by more than 30 percent, or that perforates the suspension mounting plates, calls for replacement, and this is not negotiable, since it is a matter of active safety.
Estimated cost
- Surface treatment: 300 to 600 EUR
- Replacing tubular sections: 1,000 to 2,500 EUR depending on the workshop
Preparing your Méhari's restoration? Access our complete restoration manual so you don't miss a step, from the chassis to final assembly. Discover the Citroën Méhari restoration guide →
Zone 3: The rear shell, storage bin and wheel arches
The rear of the Méhari hides a zone that is often overlooked: the rear storage bin, made of steel on earlier cars and plastic on later ones, and the floor panels that support it. The rear wheel arches are also classic moisture traps.
On Méharis built before 1974, the storage bin is metal. It collects rainwater and mud and corrodes from underneath. Tap it, if it sounds hollow in places or the screwdriver goes through, a steel repair is needed. Reproduction parts are available from specialists, budget 300 to 500 EUR for the part alone.
The metal inserts that anchor the ABS body to the chassis are small steel points that rust almost systematically. They are not structural, but they can make unbolting the body panels very difficult, with seized screws and oval holes. Plan to replace them as a matter of course during any restoration, the budget is small, under 100 EUR, but the time saved is considerable.
Zone 4: The central tunnel
The central tunnel is the low backbone of the car, carrying the handbrake cable and the wiring loom while tying the two side members together. It is a closed section, in other words a perfect water trap. Rust develops here from the inside out, invisible until it reaches an advanced stage.
Run the magnet repeatedly along the full length of the tunnel. Anywhere it stops gripping should be drilled for a closer look, or checked with an inspection camera if you prefer a non destructive approach. A severely affected tunnel needs cutting out and rebuilding in sheet steel, 800 to 2,000 EUR of labour depending on the length involved.
Zone 5: Seat mounting brackets and soft top fittings
These are less structural but still matter for both resale value and weatherproofing.
The Méhari's seats bolt onto brackets welded to the floor, and these brackets are often the first point to rust under the carpets. Always lift the carpets and check the welds and the steel around the bolts. A bracket that is rusted around the thread can also mean the bolts were removed with stagnant water sitting underneath, a bad sign for the surrounding floor.
The metal clips and frames that hold the soft top are thin steel, and they rust almost systematically, especially on cars stored with a damp top closed. Corrosion can perforate the fabric or permanently stain the ABS hoops. Replacement parts cost 50 to 150 EUR, with modest labour.
To go further in your assessment and avoid unpleasant surprises, see our complete Citroën Méhari restoration guide, which covers the whole rebuild process from start to finish.
What is purely cosmetic: the ABS plastic body
It is worth repeating: the ABS body does not rust. Discolouration, hairline cracks or brittleness are plastic ageing problems, not corrosion, and they cost 200 to 1,500 EUR to address depending on the extent, but they never affect the car's safety or structural longevity. Do not let a tired looking plastic body put you off a car whose chassis is actually sound, and do not let a glossy repainted body distract you from a chassis that was never inspected.
Ready to get started? Our Méhari restoration manual guides you step by step: chassis diagnosis, panel preparation, deep treatment and long-term protection. Access the complete restoration guide →
Frequently asked questions
Can the Méhari's plastic body rust?
No. The Citroën Méhari's body is entirely made of thermoformed ABS plastic, a material that does not rust. It can discolour, crack or turn brittle with age, but corrosion only affects the steel chassis, the floor and the side members underneath the body.
How do you tell if a Méhari's side members are too rusted to repair?
A side member is considered beyond repair when rust has perforated the steel or reduced its thickness by more than 30 percent, or when it has compromised the suspension arm mounting points. Test it with a screwdriver, if the blade goes in without resistance, the side member needs replacing. A specialist classic bodyshop can give a precise diagnosis by local grinding.
What is the best rust treatment for a restored Méhari?
On sound or lightly corroded areas, apply a rust converter followed by a two part epoxy primer, then a wax injection into closed cavities such as the tunnel and the hollow side members. Avoid thick, sprayed-on bitumen coatings, they trap moisture over the long term and hide any recurrence.
Is a rusty Méhari still worth restoring?
It depends on the extent of the damage. A Méhari with a badly affected floor and side members can cost more to restore than a car that has already been redone. On the other hand, if the structure is sound and the rust is only superficial, the Méhari remains one of the most accessible classics to restore yourself, thanks to its simple design. Weigh the total cost before you buy.
Where does rust hide the most on a Méhari?
The central tunnel is the most deceptive spot, being a closed section, rust develops inside it with no visible sign for years. The seat mounting brackets under the carpets are also commonly missed during a quick inspection. Always lift every floor covering before you decide.